Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC Sehen

Es gibt einen bemerkenswerten Mangel an sauberen, angemessen dimensionierten, mechanischen Welt-Timing-Uhren auf dem Markt, die eine Schande ist, weil nicht nur sie super cool sind, ist die Komplikation außergewöhnlich nützlich. Nun, das wird mit dem Girard-Perregaux WW.TC 1966 zu ändern - ein klassischer Welt-Timer mit nachdenklich reservierten Proportionen, und die Antwort, dass viele Geschäftsreisende und häufige Flieger haben gewartet. In der Tat, die Komplikation ist so nützlich, trägt ein Weltzeitmesser schafft eine jener seltenen Fälle in der Horologie, wo die Informationen über eine Uhr ist tatsächlich mehr verfügbar, als sagen, spiegelt die "Weltzeit" -Funktion auf dem Handy, oder Fragte Siri "... wie spät ist es in Sydney?"

Im Zeitalter der zunehmend durchdringenden Globalisierung ist die World Wide Time Control oder die Kollektion "WW.TC" von Girard-Perregaux eines der Markenzeichen der Marke, angetrieben von einem eigens entwickelten und hergestellten 24-Stunden-Weltzeitkaliber. Doch die langlebige Baureihe, die jetzt im sechzehnten Jahr stattfindet, ist seit jeher durch ihre Proportionen und ihre kühne, sportliche Ausführung zurückgehalten worden - weder von der WW.TC keine Gunst, wenn es um die Praktikabilität des Alltags geht Die für die Reise erforderliche Diskretion. Doch für diese SIHH 2017-Version löste Girard-Perregaux die Chronographenfunktion aus und reduzierte den Gehäusedurchmesser auf 40mm x 12mm, womit er die bisher tragbarste (und bezahlbarste) WW.TC und ein würdiger Einstieg für GPs Vintage-Inspiration war Sammlung von 1966.

Jede Uhr in der Kollektion von 1966 ist im Wesentlichen ein Fest der klassischen Schweizer Uhrenindustrie. Sie zollt den Design-Cues, die auf Taschenuhren gefunden wurden, eine herausragende Rolle bei der Herstellung aller gängigen Kalibriergeräte (Perpetual-Kalender, Mondphasen, Säulen-Chronographen) Ding), die bisher das GP03300 Weltzeitkaliber fehlte. Jetzt befreit von beiden Datum und die Chronographenmodule, die früheren Versionen der WW.TC kennzeichnet, hält diese automatische Bewegung die Dinge einfach mit einer rotierenden 24-Stunden-Disc, einem kleinen Sekunden-Subdial bei 6:00 und einer großzügigen 46-Stunden-Power reservieren. Die daraus resultierende Ausführung ist sauber, einfach und überraschend gedrosselt angesichts ihrer Größe - eine Rarität mit einer Komplikation, die im Allgemeinen so viel Komplexität oder visuelle Unordnung wie möglich einlädt.

Die Krone bei 3:00 betreibt die üblichen Funktionen - Stunden- und Minutenzeiger, und die Krone um 9:00 dreht die Weltzeitscheibe und ermöglicht es dem Träger, die Referenzstadt auf 12:00 Uhr einzustellen, Und erhält so sofort einen unmittelbaren Bezugspunkt für 24 globale Zeitzonen. Sichtbar durch einen Saphirglasboden, die Bewegung selbst ist schön fertig, mit kontrastierenden Körnern, Fasen und Côtes de Genève Streifen.

Das Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC ist nicht nur mehr tragbar als seine Vorgänger, es ist auch gemunkelt, um deutlich mehr erschwinglich in einem subjektiven Sinne - und während die Preise offiziell bei SIHH angekündigt werden, eine Reduzierung von der $ 16.000 Startpreis an erwarten Die 2013 Chronographen-Serie. Girard-perregaux.com mehr sehen fake watch und Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Replica Watch: die Kunst der Transparenz

Wieder einmal Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Replica Watch erweitert seine Innovation und Know - how mit Materialien zur Geschichte der Uhrmacherei Premieren. Durch die Umwandlung des "savoir faire" hat Hublot die Herstellung von einzigartigen und sehr harten Materialien wie Magic Gold, dem weltweit einzigen kratzfesten Gold, entwickelt. Jetzt im Jahr 2016 hat Hublot 500 Big Bang Unico Sapphire Modelle erstellt, die gerade aus Saphir geschnitten sind, ohne den einzigartigen und seltenen Charakter von Sapphire zu verlieren.

"Durch die Kunst der Fusion enthüllt Hublot alles. Ein transparenter Fall, der die Seele der Uhr - die Unico-Bewegung - und eine absolute Transparenz zeigt, die sich bis zum Gurt erstreckt, der unsichtbar geworden ist. Jenseits der Symbolik und des Wortspiels legt sich der Urknall bloß. Es hat nichts zu verbergen und alles zu zeigen. "Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO von Hublot.

Saphir - ein äußerst schwieriges Material für die Maschine - ist bis jetzt für einmalige Stücke oder sehr private Sammlungen reserviert worden. Nach dem anspruchsvollen Sapphire-Projekt "LaFerrari" von MP05 setzt Hublot auf die Herausforde- rung, die es gerade in Sapphire-Schneiden durch seine Interpretation in einer Serie von 500 Stück erreicht hat. Dies ist eine erste. Sapphire war noch nie so weit geschnitten worden.
Der Fall Mitte, Lünette und Rückseite des Hublot Big Saphir Replik Knall unico sind aus Blöcken aus Saphir geschnitten, ein Material , das fast so hart und kratzfest wie Diamant (9 auf der Mohs - Skala als 10 für Diamant gegen). Hublot hat die Expertise eines Schweizer Spezialisten als Teil einer exklusiven Partnerschaft aufgerufen, um das einzigartige Material zu entwickeln. Nur wenige Stücke, die die Wirbelsäule der Uhr bilden, sind aus Titan: die Schrauben, die Krone, die mit Silikon überformt ist, und die entfaltete Schnalle. Das Skelett-Zifferblatt aus transparentem Harz zeigt alle Gänge der proprietären Unico HUB1242 und deren Oberflächen. Komplementär zu seiner ätherischen Silhouette, ist seine Strap - transparent - unsichtbar, so dass die Haut durch sie gesehen werden kann. Erhältlich als 500 Stück limitierte Auflage, die großen Saphir Replik Knall unico ist wasserdicht bis 50 Meter. mehr sehen fake uhren kaufen und Replika Rolex Milgauss

Helson Shark Diver 40

Shortly after the Helson Spear Diver Frame crossed my threshold, I was offered another watch from that manufacturer. This time, Watch Otaku Paul Hubbard provided his personal Shark Diver 40. (He also sent his Armida A8 brass, keep an eye out for that review soon.) Bear in mind, this watch was his daily default for quite some time, so the photos show the scrapes and bumps of regular wear. 

Now The Time Bum is generally a creature of dry land, so I did not test whether the Helson was suitable for diving for sharks, but I did wear it through a typical attorney's work week and can attest that it holds its own with sharks of the two-legged variety. Even out of the water, it is a rugged and attractive watch in a comfortable size.

Helson offers the Shark Diver in three sizes: 45mm, 42mm, and 40mm. I have been known to wear watches covering this entire range and beyond, but I do find that smaller cases tend to get more wrist time for simple reason that I can wear them to the office. The larger ones only come out in evenings or on weekends. The 40x12x49mm case was an easy fit on my 6.5" wrist and under the barrels of my shirt cuffs. While it may be on the small side of the dive watch spectrum, it is certainly every inch a tool watch. The flat sides, angular crown guards, and 7mm crown look the business. The only soft lines are the slight bowing to the case sides when viewed from the top, and the steep curve of the thick lugs in profile. Every surface is brushed: case, bezel, and even the dark grey dial. The overall impression is that the watch was hewn from a single billet of stainless steel. This overtly mechanical look is underscored by the deep gear-like teeth of the crown and bezel, and the exposed screws in the drilled lugs and bracelet links. 

Sharks dive deep, so any watch called "Shark Diver" had best do the same. When it comes to toughness, the Helson does not disappoint. It is rated for 500 meters water resistance. The signed crown screws down, as does the case back, which is decorated with circling sharks. The crystal is flat sapphire, 3mm thick with an anti-reflective coating. The only thing the 40 gives up to its larger siblings is a helium release valve. My heart sank a little when I saw the exposed fasteners through the drilled lugs. Screw bars bedevil me. I know they are a secure method for attaching a strap or bracelet, but I had visions of stripped heads and scratched lugs. As it turned out, there was no need to worry. The bars have hex heads instead of the more common slotted screws. Removal was easy using the supplied hex tool, the deep socket providing a firm seat with no risk of slip. 

The supplied bracelet was just as tough as the case, both in terms of function and appearence. It has solid ends and heavy "H" links with a signed flip lock diver's clasp. The individual links are screwed, which means that for purposes of easy adjustment, I am too. I understand the utility, but sizing a bracelet using two little screwdrivers is a matter of high effort, low reward, and great risk of losing one of those tiny buggers. Still, I cannot fault a Helson for this decision. Like the screw-in bars, the screwed links are a sound mechanical choice and enhance the utilitarian appearence of the watch. The thick, brushed links complement the stout case and whole package reinforces the perception that you are wearing a serious tool in a compact package. 

Movement is the familiar 24 jewel Miyota 9015. Like every other 9015 I have encountered, it has a 28.8k bph beat rate, 40 hour power reserve, hacking and hand winding capabilities, and excellent accuracy. Unlike the others, it exhibits no rotor noise. All my other Miyota automatics whir when you move, presenting a noticeable reminder of the machine on your wrist. This one is silent. I cannot explain it, but I like it. 

The industrial aesthetic continues in the dark grey dial. Its visible vertical brushing, subtle sheen, and metallic color work beautifully with the brushed case and bezel. The plongeur hands are matte finished and filled with the same greenish Superluminova that graces the large, painted markers, and the engraved 120 click bezel. The only text is the brand and model at the top of the dial, and "Automatic 500 M" at the bottom. "Shark Diver" is rendered in dark orange. The effect is at once sober and dazzling - particularly at night when the lume lights up like a neon sign. The 4:30 window reveals another thoughtful detail: a color matched date. 

The Shark Diver is certainly a tool watch, but it exhibits just enough sophistication to go from the briny depths to the urban jungle. It may be more difficult to wear with a suit than, say, a Submariner style, but on the bracelet, it would not look terribly out of place. I had fun swapping the stainless links for a Palm Green leather pass-through strap from J. Grant's General Store. The strap color heightened the green in the lume, giving the watch an eye catching punch. For a more neutral look, I fitted a Victor & Wells Glenwood leather NATO. The two were beautifully matched as the bar allowed sufficient clearance for the thick brushed leather of this strap, the weight of the leather was sufficient to balance the hefty case, and the warm brown complemented the cool metallics. 

If you are ready to rush to the Helson web site to buy the watch, I have good news and bad news. First the bad news: the grey dial 40 has been discontinued. Now the good: it is still available in white and blue dials, both of which have sapphire bezels and look perfectly stunning. The 40 sells for $599  including shipping, bracelet, rubber strap, and hex tool, all stowed in a screw top tube with a cut foam insert. If you like the basic design and want to up the ante a bit, you can get a bronze version with an ETA 2824 movement for $1199. 

I was quite impressed with the Shark Diver 40. It is an exceptionally well executed tool watch. The specs are spot-on for price, and the design is sporty, aggressive, and surprisingly detailed. If you find you need a bigger boat, larger models are available, but the mid-size 40 is perfect for me. 

Pro: Killer looks, killer specs, killer lume.

Con: Grey is NLA.

Sum: "Man goes in the cage. Cage goes in the water. Shark's in the water. Our shark." The Time Bum approves.

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Undone Aqua

Every time a new watch is released, a chorus of self-proclaimed experts crawls out of the woodwork to criticize it. "Oh sure," they say, "it's pretty cool, but the date wheel should have been black," or "I wish it were available in green," or "The second had should have been yellow, not red! The red hand is a travesty!" I know this because I'm one of them, and if you are reading this, I'll bet you are too. Second-guessing watch designers is great fun, but what if you had the ability to design your watch, your way? Undone is a new venture that aims to do just that, giving you the ability to mix and match a variety of colors, finishes, and parts to create a watch that is uniquely yours. They may not be the only company to offer this (Swedish brand, Fewsome springs to mind), but it is not a common service, and certainly nothing I had tried before. Undone let The Time Bum whip up his own creation for this review.

Undone's first model is the Aqua, a 200m diver with a screw-down crown, sapphire crystal, and wedge-shaped date magnifier. Its movement is a trusty Seiko NH35, a hacking, hand winding, 21 jewel automatic that runs at 21.6k bph. The stainless steel case is appropriately burly measuring 45mm wide, 52mm long, and 15mm thick. Large, wedge-shaped guards taper around an octagonal crown cast with the Undone "U." The coin edged bezel is unidirectional. It moves easily through its 90 positions with loud clicks and just a touch of back play. A recessed section of steel between the long lugs bridges the gap between the barrel and the spring bars. The case is polished on the sides while the top is brushed. I like the overall shape, but the overall level of finish could be improved. The brushing shows pronounced grain and the inside edge of the lugs is too sharp for my liking.

These are the basics. From this point on, you order your Aqua a la carte through their online Customizer. Start with the case. All Aqua cases are the same but with different finishes. I chose silver steel. PVD options include black, gun metal, gold, and rose gold. That selection made, you pick your bezel insert, either cut ceramic in your choice of four colors with raised, polished markers on a matte background, or K1 glass with bright luminous markers. It is hard to make a bad choice here. I opted for the vintage look of domed glass. You have a dizzying array of colors from which to choose, but I went with the classic white on black.

The dial is next. It has numbers at 12, 6, and 9, a 3 o'clock date window, and bars for the remaining markers and the index. This is where you really get to play as you click through the different choices. Do you want colored markers, lumed markers, or black? Matte dial, glossy, carbon, or sun ray? Perhaps pink camouflage is more to your liking? Undone can also print small batches with a custom design or company logo. I considered this, but as you may have noticed, The Time Bum is not a graphic designer and does not have a particularly dial-friendly logo. As is, Undone has discreetly tucked their brand name below the 6, leaving the dial clean. Considering all the times I have criticized watch designers for needless clutter and ugly logos, I felt it best to leave well enough alone. I chose a shimmering deep blue sunray with white lume markers and nothing else. 

You many choose from three handsets: sword, "Mercedes" poire squelette, or a rounded wedge. Of course, there are numerous colors from which to choose, as well as luminous and non-luminous options. There is only one style of second hand, but the color is up to you. Now to be clear, the color you are selecting is the fill. The frames are either black or polished, depending on fill color selection. I understand why this is, after all, it is far easier to change the fill than to paint the hands, but I wish I could have chosen a bright hand color with white lume. As it was, I went with a traditional polished Mercedes handset with white lume. The glow from the hands was as bright as that of the bezel, but faint on the dial markers.

As mentioned above, the only movement available is the NH35, and I have no qualms about that. Lest you think you have no options, you can choose your date wheel. I went for white-on-black, but in retrospect, I wish I had chosen black-on-white as it might have better balanced those big white numbers. 

A watch with so many options certainly must have an equally impressive selection of straps and Undone does not disappoint in this department, offering Horween oil tanned leather, Italian leather, suede, bund style, rubber, or alligator print, each in a variety of colors. I chose a black calfskin leather with orange stitching. This standard calfskin strap does not appear to be an option anymore and I must say that is a good thing because the quality was very poor. After just three days, the finish was cracking and wearing through. I can only assume the current options are better. The attractive engraved buckle was also a letdown as its edges and corners are unpleasantly sharp. The buckle did not make contact with my wrist, but it feels unfinished. 

The final step us to specify a solid or display case back, and any engraving or printing you may wish. I refrained from printing The Time Bum on the dial, but I was ready and willing to tattoo it across the watch's behind. It is printed on the display glass in all of its black, white, and orange glory. 

With the options chosen, my watch was $430. I submitted my PayPal info and waited. My package arrived in short order, and I eagerly peeled it open. Now I don't generally care about packaging unless it is something special. In this case, that something was my site name. There is was, printed on the outer box for all the see and enjoy, "The Time Bum." It was too magnificent – but wait! It gets better. The Time Bum was also engraved on a metal plate screwed to the display box. In the great scheme of things, I'll admit this might not be such a big deal, but it felt damn good to see my name on there. Clearly, Undone understands that magic moment when the customer opens the box. 

I have been wearing my Undone very special Time Bum Edition for a few days now, and overall I'm pleased. I love the fact that I chose the options that were right for me, and it tickles me to know this watch has my name on it (or at least, my online alter-ego's name). Is there anything I would change about my selections? Sure. I'd have gone with a white date wheel, a different strap for sure, and I could have been a tad more adventurous in my selections. Would I change anything about what Undone has to offer? Yes. The buckle needs work, the bezel action could be tighter, and some of the finishing on the case could be improved, but still and all, designing my Undone was an absolute blast, and the result is mighty cool.

Other criticisms? Well, I can hardly jab them for more selection but I will anyway. I would like to see a no-date option, a no-magnifier option, more hand colors than just black and silver, and second dial option would have been nice, but given all the choices that exist, I'm just getting greedy. I know Undone has two new models in the works, The Hemisphere and The Terrain, so it will be interesting to see what direction they take.

I highly recommend a visit to the Undone site. You will have great fun on the Customizer, and you might just design your perfect watch. Do it soon, because Undone will give Time Bum readers 20% off until December 1 with the code THETIMEBUM. 

Pro: A watch tailored to you.

Con: You'd better have a spare buckle.

Sum: A one-of-one, by you, for you. Check it out.

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